forgotten_aria (
forgotten_aria) wrote2017-10-29 07:06 pm
![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
The making of the art nouveau chun li costume
Tl,DR: I made this costume:

A friend suggested that she wanted an excuse to make a costume and so did I, so we decided in July to give ourselves enough time. I was waffling between Art Nouveau Chun Li designed by Kim Razvan Courtney in their art work here or Cyberpunk Zarya from Overwatch. Given that I thought Zarya's gun alone would take me the whole time, I chose Chun Li as being "easier." I did not anticipate how hard elegantly draped fabric would be. The designer made this amazing reference sheet with cosplayer's in mind, so there was lots of information to go on, plus about 4-5 people on the internet.
As it was, I didn't actually "finish." I had something to wear, but the details were missing.
First I bought the boots. One of the things I didn't finish were the boot covers, but I was pleased enough with the boots I found.
Next I made the corset. This is also a part that I didn't finish, because it's supposed to have blue lines. I also want to alter the back a bit. maybe even replace it, because of the scaling of some of the details. The white upholstery fabric was nice to work with, however.

Next I worked on the bodice, including hand painting these details. as things went along, I learned more about handing painting.

I also the back of the collar, which also needs to be redone. It was before I'd gotten the transfer paper, which made my life so much easier.
I think one of the things I am the most pleased about were the bracelets. I layered 7 layers of craft foam, laminating them with glue and then coated the edges in magic model. I painted the edges blue before I realized that the white was closer to the image and looked way cooler. I thought long and hard about the spikes and went with magic model with them too. It was very hard, even with a mold to get them consistent, so I made extra and picked the ones that matched the best. Also, to mold them I had a two part mold. a paper part I could peel off and a nice solid cone to make them shaped. They were a little fragile (I broke once against the wall when wearing it) but in general they turned out great. I am also super proud of punching holes in the last layer of foam which not only held the spikes securely, but also made for a nice clean look and allowed me to measure the spacing carefully.


I got a rolling foot for the chiffon. (Turned out I already owned two, but oh well) and with a bit of practice, it was the perfect thing for the edging. I didn't do it perfectly, but it didn't have to be done perfectly and still look good.
I was frustrated by the search for the correct beads. As it is I never quite found the ones I want. Eventually I would luck out and get a super on discount necklace from target, chop it up and add a hodgepodge of beads. It turned out at least evoking the same feel as the design.
I start struggling with how to do the sleeve petals. I start by trying all one strip, but it's just not coming out right. I also struggle with getting the bodice together, and making symmetric, well shaped cups. Much later I would by some ridge breast cups, I wish I had done that a LOT sooner. I also start hunting for a low enough cut bra. I found one almost right for $4. It served well enough.
I also order some "opaque" tights that still weren't opaque enough, but found some nice brown leggings that looked enough like bare legs to work.
I cut the major panels out of the blue first since I know they would take the most fabric, but it was a long before I start to work it.
I finish the collar somewhere in there. I struggled with it and it's something I'd like to redo if I ever comeback to this costume and finish it up. I am glad I added hooks to keep it closed, however.
I start the hand painting and it takes a lot longer than I thought. Masking tape did help for the long lines, however, so that was a mercy.


The panels go one with not to much trouble. I start struggling with the sleeves about now. I decided to do twelve individual pedals. I'm really glad I did, but it was a lot of sewing.

Now I start struggling with the artfully draped pieces. Not only was I struggling with their shape, but how to make them KEEP the shape without being ironed flat. I ironed it anywhere it was covered, but it really didn't behave at all well. Still not sure how to fix that.
I still struggled with the sleeves. Turned out organza was the right answer, but I kept not finding the color I wanted. I gave in, right at the end, for the wrong color of organza after trying to make the pale blue chiffon do the right thing supported with tulle.
I had been working on the jewelry every night since I got the discount necklace. I found some perfect ear rings and the morning of the party I made the amber necklace. For the hair flowers I found the perfect little craft flowers 10 for $1.
This last week has been non-stop sewing. It was a lot of work and I wish I had time managed better, but a lot of why I didn't was getting stuck on things that I had inspiration on later.
I wish I had tried to do the yellow the way it looks like it was tied. I think in the long run it would have been easier to do that. The sleeves are also kludged right now and could use some work (as well as they need to be painted.)
It's been so long since I've done a project of this scale with a deadline. I am both elated and exhausted.
And I need to find an excuse to finish it and wear it again.

EDIT: Oh, and I found out the hard way, don't use enamel on scupley (or other oven bake clays.) I had to remake that part because it was sticky.

A friend suggested that she wanted an excuse to make a costume and so did I, so we decided in July to give ourselves enough time. I was waffling between Art Nouveau Chun Li designed by Kim Razvan Courtney in their art work here or Cyberpunk Zarya from Overwatch. Given that I thought Zarya's gun alone would take me the whole time, I chose Chun Li as being "easier." I did not anticipate how hard elegantly draped fabric would be. The designer made this amazing reference sheet with cosplayer's in mind, so there was lots of information to go on, plus about 4-5 people on the internet.
As it was, I didn't actually "finish." I had something to wear, but the details were missing.
First I bought the boots. One of the things I didn't finish were the boot covers, but I was pleased enough with the boots I found.
Next I made the corset. This is also a part that I didn't finish, because it's supposed to have blue lines. I also want to alter the back a bit. maybe even replace it, because of the scaling of some of the details. The white upholstery fabric was nice to work with, however.

Next I worked on the bodice, including hand painting these details. as things went along, I learned more about handing painting.

I also the back of the collar, which also needs to be redone. It was before I'd gotten the transfer paper, which made my life so much easier.
I think one of the things I am the most pleased about were the bracelets. I layered 7 layers of craft foam, laminating them with glue and then coated the edges in magic model. I painted the edges blue before I realized that the white was closer to the image and looked way cooler. I thought long and hard about the spikes and went with magic model with them too. It was very hard, even with a mold to get them consistent, so I made extra and picked the ones that matched the best. Also, to mold them I had a two part mold. a paper part I could peel off and a nice solid cone to make them shaped. They were a little fragile (I broke once against the wall when wearing it) but in general they turned out great. I am also super proud of punching holes in the last layer of foam which not only held the spikes securely, but also made for a nice clean look and allowed me to measure the spacing carefully.


I got a rolling foot for the chiffon. (Turned out I already owned two, but oh well) and with a bit of practice, it was the perfect thing for the edging. I didn't do it perfectly, but it didn't have to be done perfectly and still look good.
I was frustrated by the search for the correct beads. As it is I never quite found the ones I want. Eventually I would luck out and get a super on discount necklace from target, chop it up and add a hodgepodge of beads. It turned out at least evoking the same feel as the design.
I start struggling with how to do the sleeve petals. I start by trying all one strip, but it's just not coming out right. I also struggle with getting the bodice together, and making symmetric, well shaped cups. Much later I would by some ridge breast cups, I wish I had done that a LOT sooner. I also start hunting for a low enough cut bra. I found one almost right for $4. It served well enough.
I also order some "opaque" tights that still weren't opaque enough, but found some nice brown leggings that looked enough like bare legs to work.
I cut the major panels out of the blue first since I know they would take the most fabric, but it was a long before I start to work it.
I finish the collar somewhere in there. I struggled with it and it's something I'd like to redo if I ever comeback to this costume and finish it up. I am glad I added hooks to keep it closed, however.
I start the hand painting and it takes a lot longer than I thought. Masking tape did help for the long lines, however, so that was a mercy.


The panels go one with not to much trouble. I start struggling with the sleeves about now. I decided to do twelve individual pedals. I'm really glad I did, but it was a lot of sewing.

Now I start struggling with the artfully draped pieces. Not only was I struggling with their shape, but how to make them KEEP the shape without being ironed flat. I ironed it anywhere it was covered, but it really didn't behave at all well. Still not sure how to fix that.
I still struggled with the sleeves. Turned out organza was the right answer, but I kept not finding the color I wanted. I gave in, right at the end, for the wrong color of organza after trying to make the pale blue chiffon do the right thing supported with tulle.
I had been working on the jewelry every night since I got the discount necklace. I found some perfect ear rings and the morning of the party I made the amber necklace. For the hair flowers I found the perfect little craft flowers 10 for $1.
This last week has been non-stop sewing. It was a lot of work and I wish I had time managed better, but a lot of why I didn't was getting stuck on things that I had inspiration on later.
I wish I had tried to do the yellow the way it looks like it was tied. I think in the long run it would have been easier to do that. The sleeves are also kludged right now and could use some work (as well as they need to be painted.)
It's been so long since I've done a project of this scale with a deadline. I am both elated and exhausted.
And I need to find an excuse to finish it and wear it again.

EDIT: Oh, and I found out the hard way, don't use enamel on scupley (or other oven bake clays.) I had to remake that part because it was sticky.